It’s a season of contrasts. At some New York City restaurants, tables are being set — get this — with white linen, while kitchens are lighting rustic wood fires. Menus are leaning toward dry-aged fish and Italian food, both red-sauce and ancient-grain esoteric. There’s an array of Korean choices; steaks and seafood at Park Avenue prices; and plats du jour in intimate townhouses and bustling brasseries. Marquee chefs — Daniel Boulud, Michael White, Alex Stupak — keep muscling in, and there are promising newcomers.

For this busy season of restaurant openings, here are the new places where I hope to splurge or Scrooge on a fancy cocktail or a modest glass of red, on dry-aged wood-grilled swordfish or a simple scallion pancake.

A New Chapter for Kent HospitalityTime and Tide

Before the chef James Kent died of a heart attack at age 45 in June, his restaurant group, now named Kent Hospitality, had settled on the name and concept for this new restaurant. He had also promoted Danny Garcia, 32, to be executive chef. Their vision is a seafood restaurant that takes its cue from the simplicity of a steakhouse menu.

360 Park Avenue South (26th Street). November.

Bistro Fare From a Lodi AlumZimmi’s

An intimate West Village bistro is the work of Jenni Guizio, who was the wine and beverage director for Union Square Hospitality Group. The name refers to the artist Marie Zimmermann, who had a farm in Milford, Pa., where Ms. Guizio runs special events. The chef and partner, Maxime Pradié, who was at Lodi, will be turning out regional French fare. An adjacent wine bar is in the works.

72 Bedford Street (Commerce Street). October.

ImageAndrew Tarlow in the kitchen at Borgo.Credit...Jeenah Moon for The New York Times

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